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Topic ClosedWhat would your ideal race bike be like?

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alexjrice View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: What would your ideal race bike be like?
    Posted: 30 April 2005 at 10:35pm
The cost of race bikes is pretty prohibitive to getting people involved in the sport ~£1200+, I'm thinking of having a go at designing a bike to bring the cost down toward the £800 mark comparable with a decent upright.

In essence my idea is a steel copy of an optima low baron using a 700c rear wheel with v brakes at the back, and a 406 front wheel with a 20mm axle downhill hub, disc brakes and a steel monoblade fork at the front. The basic model would use 4130 Chrome-Molybdenum with a lighter version using a T45 Carbon-Mangenese tube set at additional cost. There is also the possibility of making it separate under the seat for travel, again at extra cost and a bit of a weight penalty. The entire bike wouldn't be particularly light, but most BHPC courses are fairly flat anyway. Obviously to make things as cheaply as possible the frame would only be offered in one plain colour of cellulose paint, although I would offer the frame unpainted for those who wanted to paint it themselves. It would also be possible to offer the frame in it's just post brazing state allowing those who wanted to do the laborious hand finishing of the fillet brazing themselves to save even more money.

If one were to allow £350 for the bicycle components you'd have to be making the basic frame and forks for around £250 to turn a reasonable profit. This seems do-able. I already have much of the equipment and experties (15yrs spent making stuff, 2yrs into an engineering degree) although making a tube bender would be a considerable investment of time and money (making the dies being much of the work), as would the bits and bobs to thread BB's, true frames, face headtubes and so on. 4130 is cheap, and I have summer holidays. I'm pretty happy earning £5/hr if it's something I enjoy doing so even if it took me three days to make each frame & forks that's still only ~£135 of labour leaving £115 for welding gas, materials, seat, idlers etc. and £150 profit for recouping investment in equipment.

The question is, what would you add or change about the specification, might you go for a highracer instead? FWD and 406 all round? Mid drive with a 406 RWD? 406 rear and a big chainring? Would you bother with a monoblade fork or get an off the shelf BMX fork and have an extra idler? Has anyone made something like this from scratch before, any hints and tips, anything you don't like about the low baron anyway, should i prioritise making it seperable over weight and cost, and so on...

...and if I really made a batch of these things, would anyone buy them at say £400 for a frameset (F&F,seat, stem, bars and idlers), maybe £300 if you clean up the joints and paint it yourself? This would mean you could probably put together an entire bike for £450 if you were resourceful and scavenged bits off old bikes, or you could have a really nice machine with new bits for £800.


Edited by alexjrice
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AlanGoodman View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 April 2005 at 11:58pm

Alex...

When me and brother Dave looked at the Barons we found they weren't capable of being adjusted to suit our short legs... With the boom far enough in for us to reach the pedals, the crank fouled the front wheel. Not a huge problem for racing perhaps but we ride on the road as well sometimes...

Challenge make a modified version of the Hurricane that allows shortarses like us out to play.

So we bought Hurricanes.

I reckon if you want to sell lots of bikes it would be a good idea to make them fit a wide range of people...

By the way, I'm no lawyer, but are you sure that stating in public that you intend to blag a design off Optima is a great idea??...

Judging by the speed at which Mr Flemming came past me (about 99 times) at Castle Coombe I reckon you might be better off blagging a design from Velokraft.

Best of luck.

Alan.



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alexjrice View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 May 2005 at 2:00am
I think it's OK to say that the design will be based on another manufacturers product, so long as I don't call it an optima baron when (if) I sell it. It won't be an exact copy anyway, not least because I've never seen one in the flesh. The reason i was looking at it was that their general design of rear stays looks easier to fabricate en masse than other designs, although it may end up looking a bit more moulton-esque with a bit more triangulation

The low baron has it's BB quite a bit higher than the standard one which gives a lot more clearance between the cranks and the front wheel, I'm pretty tall but of course I'll bear ikle people in mind as well The solution for really short people might be to go to a 16" front wheel in a 20" fork with a bit of extra 'headtube' to keep everything at the right height but gaining a lot of extra clearance. Indeed, why do lowracers not use 16" front wheels? Any ideas?

I'm set up for making things from metal, rather than carbon fibre which is a whole different kettle of fish and something with which i have almost no experience. I suppose the setup costs are somewhat less but the development cost will be higher because of the dificulty of reworking a mould. If you get it wrong you have to scrap the whole thing rather than whipping out the torch and the hacksaw for a quick bit of 'adjustment'!
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 May 2005 at 8:01am

I would guess that the reason for going for 20" wheels over 16" may be the availability of decent high pressure tyres...

The two bikes Dave has built for our daughters to race this year both have 16" wheels on the front and the only reasonable tyres we've been able to find are the ones designed for the new Raleigh Chopper... They are ok but a bit fat and only 50 psi or so.

I have seen high pressure tyres for Bromptons advertised but they won't fit the girl's rims.

If anybody knows of better tyres that size (305 rather than 349), please let us know!!

Challenge get around the shortie problem by making a frame with the front wheel placed a couple of inches further back. This obviously shortens the wheelbase a bit so they recommend that you use the longer swinging arm from the Hurricane "Tour" rather than the "Sport" to avoid the handling being too lively/twitchy.


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 May 2005 at 8:34pm
In no particular order:-

I'm not convinced by the Baron's handling and Mr Larrington seems to have dropped his too often for me to be sold on it.

The best thing to do is knock something up, to get a geometry that suits you AND like-minded victims/friends. Don't worry about the weight and sexiness , you need to have something that works first, then you make it so it looks the biz.

With a composite bike the frame can be hacked and patched reasonably easily. I would recommend starting with a wrap around a foam core first though to get everything worked out, then making the moulds.

Alan, why not rebuild the wheels for 349 and you can get Stelvios? A no help answer I know but hey I'm that kind of guy...


gNick



"I'm afraid it's definite, Mrs Banker - your son has bicycles"
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 May 2005 at 10:37pm

That's a good thought... I'll pass it on to the family bike builder...

Ta very much.

 


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 May 2005 at 12:43am
Looking at the baron in comparison to other bikes (jester, no com) they all seem to have the same head angle, the main differences are that the baron has about a 4" shorter wheelbase and the seat about 3" further back than the jester. This is going to mean that the weight balance will be more to the rear which could possibly result in the front wheel washing out and also with a shorter wheelbase the handling will be slightly quicker.

The baron has the BB about 6" higher than the jester so should be better aerodynamically. In relation to the seat the no-com's BB is similar to the jester.

Seat angle is pretty much the same between all three.

Alan, Marathons come in 305, they're not as fast as stelvios but they're not bad and will take something like 90psi. A good stop-gap measure.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 May 2005 at 7:46am

Thanks Alex.

I'll have a look at those as well.

 

Hmmmmmm... I can see it won't be too long before I end up geting lapped by two eleven year olds....


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 May 2005 at 11:08am
Alex,

    Great idea to lure new riders/racers with a cheaper
bike. However, I wonder if a 'pure race' machine like
the Low Baron is the best design. I'm thinking there is a bigger market for a 'sport' type bike, which is practical for road use as well as racing. £800 is still alot of money for a bike you're only going to ride 12 times a year!

           Best of luck!
I want to give peace, love and kisses out to this whole stinking world!
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alexjrice View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 May 2005 at 5:11pm
Yes, I was thinking about that. I think it would be better to have the BB a little lower than the baron, and have the seat adjustable for a less reclined position. I rekon that should make it rideable on the road for training purposes at least, and it will definitely have provision for mudguards and bottle bosses, but probably not a luggage rack.

I ride a Catrike Speed on busy roads and even a lowracer is quite a bit higher than that, and I've not had any problems. I'll make it as practical as possible without diluting it as a race machine.

Given the limited initial production capacity (ie. me) the size of the market is not as critical as it might be. Once I've made a few then I may look to diversify, <fantasy> if it were to ever really take off to the point where I could do it full time and had enough money to invest in a CNC milling machine to make dropouts etc. then I'd like to have a stab at making an uber-utilitarian 'bent </fantasy> but until then I'd be chuffed if I made and sold a dozen.
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